18/07/2012
today at ucol we did windows mark showed us the process of how to put windows in. level one side of the window an place packers on that wall after you have found the center of the hole in the wall. pack up the bottom of the window untill flush with the flashing. put window in an screw it in to the side youe packed. pack the other side and boom done.
Tuesday 17 July 2012
Sunday 17 June 2012
18/06/2012
today me liam and toucher finished off one side of the roof purlins. we started off by looking at the ones that were already there to make sure they were strait but they were not. we had to pull out the ends off and cut around 10mm off each 1 with the hand saw to kae it push up further at the ends making it straiten up along the whole house. once we had them all straight we carryed on orking down the roof make sure we staggerd the joins each purlin we put up. each spacing was 715mm centures. each prrlin had to have 2 4inch nails on each edge.
hand tools used: ful apron of tools, chalk line,
power tools used: drop saw.
today me liam and toucher finished off one side of the roof purlins. we started off by looking at the ones that were already there to make sure they were strait but they were not. we had to pull out the ends off and cut around 10mm off each 1 with the hand saw to kae it push up further at the ends making it straiten up along the whole house. once we had them all straight we carryed on orking down the roof make sure we staggerd the joins each purlin we put up. each spacing was 715mm centures. each prrlin had to have 2 4inch nails on each edge.
hand tools used: ful apron of tools, chalk line,
power tools used: drop saw.
Tuesday 12 June 2012
12/6/2012
today at ucol we started to do purlins. 1st we had to measure down from the top of the truss 150mm an then 715mm gaps from then on. we chalk line every mark right across all the trusses. we tacked a nail into every 3rd chalk mark of every line so that we could lay the purlins down on the roff with out them sliding away. we then measurd 150mm off the hip rafter each side and ran another purlin up to the one on the trusses. we had to cut an angle on the hip rafer purlin so it came up flush with the top 1.we then went along each purlin nailing it in with 2 4inch nails an 1 purlin screw into every truss. the join on the purlins had to be staggered to help strenghten the roof.
today at ucol we started to do purlins. 1st we had to measure down from the top of the truss 150mm an then 715mm gaps from then on. we chalk line every mark right across all the trusses. we tacked a nail into every 3rd chalk mark of every line so that we could lay the purlins down on the roff with out them sliding away. we then measurd 150mm off the hip rafter each side and ran another purlin up to the one on the trusses. we had to cut an angle on the hip rafer purlin so it came up flush with the top 1.we then went along each purlin nailing it in with 2 4inch nails an 1 purlin screw into every truss. the join on the purlins had to be staggered to help strenghten the roof.
Sunday 10 June 2012
11/06/2012
today i did hip rafters. each rafer had to be put in accuratly we started by putting in the premade rafers tht were already nailed together. once we had them sitting in place we nailed the bottom on the rafter in an then level the rafter an nailed the top. once all the rafters were in we had to nail plate the hip rafter together becasue the timber was to short. once both sides hip rafters were nailed in it was the end of the day
hand tools used: full apron hammer rule etc level string line.
power tools used: nail gun
today i did hip rafters. each rafer had to be put in accuratly we started by putting in the premade rafers tht were already nailed together. once we had them sitting in place we nailed the bottom on the rafter in an then level the rafter an nailed the top. once all the rafters were in we had to nail plate the hip rafter together becasue the timber was to short. once both sides hip rafters were nailed in it was the end of the day
hand tools used: full apron hammer rule etc level string line.
power tools used: nail gun
Tuesday 29 May 2012
Monday 28 May 2012
29/5/2012
frame construction
today we just carryed on from last week with straitening the frames we stood. my job was to measure the intreanl frames an make sure thay were all paralell. after plumbing the frames noticed that none of them were paralell so i got my tape an hooked it over the external frame and did a running measurement along with the plans i moved the frames to where thy were ment to be working from 1 end to the other end. i then moved across to the hall way side of the room and did the same measurements. i then got the 30m tape and did an overall measurement and referd to the plans to see if i was close to where i was supose to be.
hand tools used
hammer
30m tape
8m tape
level
straight edge
frame construction
today we just carryed on from last week with straitening the frames we stood. my job was to measure the intreanl frames an make sure thay were all paralell. after plumbing the frames noticed that none of them were paralell so i got my tape an hooked it over the external frame and did a running measurement along with the plans i moved the frames to where thy were ment to be working from 1 end to the other end. i then moved across to the hall way side of the room and did the same measurements. i then got the 30m tape and did an overall measurement and referd to the plans to see if i was close to where i was supose to be.
hand tools used
hammer
30m tape
8m tape
level
straight edge
Monday 7 May 2012
8/5/2010
internal framing
today we started to nail up the intrenal frames. 1st i tacked the top and bottom plate together. i then marked out where the studs go. 600mm centures for gib fixing. and also marking out where jack studs full studs blocking an trimmer studs go
X = full stud.
J/S = jack stud.
T = trimmer stud.
B = blocking.
after i had the top an bottom plate marked out i pulled the nails out an started laying down studs between the plates. i startd at the end of the wall an nailed in the 1st stud using 90mm paslode gun nails 2 in each end of the stud. once i had the 1st 1 in i just carryed on down the wall an put the blocking an studs in. once i got to the door i look at the plans to see how wide it was. the door was 760mm wide plus 30mm each side of the door for jams an then another 10mm on each side for packing an clearance which made my all up measurement 840mm. i marked on the top an bottom plate 45mm back from the other end of the wall an marked it T for trimmer stud. then another 45mm for the full stud.then measured back 840mm from the trimmer stud mark an sqaured that mark. after that i measured back another 45mm an 90mm marked the 1st 45mm T an the 2nd wit X for full stud. once i nailed all the studs in i cut a top lintel for the top of the door. 2 peaices of 90mm/45mm nailed together stood up on there edge. once that was nailed in i cut 2 small peaices on 90mm/45mm to fit above the lintel and my wall was finished.
hand tools used
- hammer
- 1m rule
- pencil
- sqaure
- 8m tape
power tools used
- paslode nail gun
- radial arm saw
internal framing
today we started to nail up the intrenal frames. 1st i tacked the top and bottom plate together. i then marked out where the studs go. 600mm centures for gib fixing. and also marking out where jack studs full studs blocking an trimmer studs go
X = full stud.
J/S = jack stud.
T = trimmer stud.
B = blocking.
after i had the top an bottom plate marked out i pulled the nails out an started laying down studs between the plates. i startd at the end of the wall an nailed in the 1st stud using 90mm paslode gun nails 2 in each end of the stud. once i had the 1st 1 in i just carryed on down the wall an put the blocking an studs in. once i got to the door i look at the plans to see how wide it was. the door was 760mm wide plus 30mm each side of the door for jams an then another 10mm on each side for packing an clearance which made my all up measurement 840mm. i marked on the top an bottom plate 45mm back from the other end of the wall an marked it T for trimmer stud. then another 45mm for the full stud.then measured back 840mm from the trimmer stud mark an sqaured that mark. after that i measured back another 45mm an 90mm marked the 1st 45mm T an the 2nd wit X for full stud. once i nailed all the studs in i cut a top lintel for the top of the door. 2 peaices of 90mm/45mm nailed together stood up on there edge. once that was nailed in i cut 2 small peaices on 90mm/45mm to fit above the lintel and my wall was finished.
hand tools used
- hammer
- 1m rule
- pencil
- sqaure
- 8m tape
power tools used
- paslode nail gun
- radial arm saw
Sunday 22 April 2012
18/04/2012
flooring
today we started off by marking out the 1st sheet for the flooring. we ran string lines along the joists at 1250mm and used blocks to keep the line straight of the peaces of partical board. after we got the 1st peaice nailed down with 65mm angle grove floorig nails we ran the next peice up next to it and carryed on right the way down to the other end. once we got to the far end of the house we turned around and went back the other way so that we could stagger the joints. the peices were joined in tounge and groove pattern. each peaice had to be glued along the joists with gorilla grip express glue.
http://www.holdfast.co.nz/pages/product_details.aspx?pid=20075&psid=20075
nailing for the flooring had to be nailed in at 150mm spacing around the outside and 200mm spacing throuhg the middle.
hand tools used
hammer
knife
square
pencil
8mtape
power tools used'
nail gun
skill saw
flooring
today we started off by marking out the 1st sheet for the flooring. we ran string lines along the joists at 1250mm and used blocks to keep the line straight of the peaces of partical board. after we got the 1st peaice nailed down with 65mm angle grove floorig nails we ran the next peice up next to it and carryed on right the way down to the other end. once we got to the far end of the house we turned around and went back the other way so that we could stagger the joints. the peices were joined in tounge and groove pattern. each peaice had to be glued along the joists with gorilla grip express glue.
http://www.holdfast.co.nz/pages/product_details.aspx?pid=20075&psid=20075
nailing for the flooring had to be nailed in at 150mm spacing around the outside and 200mm spacing throuhg the middle.
hand tools used
hammer
knife
square
pencil
8mtape
power tools used'
nail gun
skill saw
23/4/2012
oil stone case.
today we got given some to scale drwaing of how to make an oil stonae case we had to use these drawings to make our own oil stone case. we were given 2 peices of d4s timber at 300mm long. d4s= dressed 4 sides. we had to mark out the oil stone dimentions onto the centure of the timber accuratly. once we had it marked onto the wood i chiseled around the edge about 3mm inside the my mark to keep the edge from chipping off. once i had it near 13mm deep i used grounding router to even of the bottom of it. i then marked out the top of the case the same as the bottom and chiseled it out to the same 13mm deep. the bottom had to be a tight fit but the lid had to be 1mm loose so that the stone couldnt fall out but the lid was loose enough to get it off. we i ten marked out the lid an planed each sie an end to give a 45 degree pitch on each side at end. the bottom also had to have feet chiesled to stable it on un even surfaces. i marked 35mm in from each end of te timber an then marked the centure of the timber an cut down 5mm into the ceture line. i then drew a line from the 35mm line to the 5m cut then chiseled it out.
hand tools used
hammer
chisel
penciil
hand plane
grounding plane
square
power tools used
nil
oil stone case.
today we got given some to scale drwaing of how to make an oil stonae case we had to use these drawings to make our own oil stone case. we were given 2 peices of d4s timber at 300mm long. d4s= dressed 4 sides. we had to mark out the oil stone dimentions onto the centure of the timber accuratly. once we had it marked onto the wood i chiseled around the edge about 3mm inside the my mark to keep the edge from chipping off. once i had it near 13mm deep i used grounding router to even of the bottom of it. i then marked out the top of the case the same as the bottom and chiseled it out to the same 13mm deep. the bottom had to be a tight fit but the lid had to be 1mm loose so that the stone couldnt fall out but the lid was loose enough to get it off. we i ten marked out the lid an planed each sie an end to give a 45 degree pitch on each side at end. the bottom also had to have feet chiesled to stable it on un even surfaces. i marked 35mm in from each end of te timber an then marked the centure of the timber an cut down 5mm into the ceture line. i then drew a line from the 35mm line to the 5m cut then chiseled it out.
hand tools used
hammer
chisel
penciil
hand plane
grounding plane
square
power tools used
nil
Tuesday 17 April 2012
18/04/2012
flooring
today we started off by marking out the 1st sheet for the flooring. we ran string lines along the joists at 1250mm and used blocks to keep the line straightt of the peaces of partical board. after we got the 1st peice nailed down with 65mm angle grove floorig nails we ran the next peice up next to it and carryed on right the way down to the other end. once we got to the far end of the house we turned around and went back the other way so that we could stagger the joints. the peices were joined in tounge and groove pattern. each peaice had to be glued along the joists with gorilla grip express glue.
http://www.holdfast.co.nz/pages/product_details.aspx?pid=20075&psid=20075
nailing for the flooring had to be nailed in at 150mm spacing around the outside and 200mm spacing throuhg the middle this info came from the manufactures broshures http://www.branz.co.nz/cms_branz_show_appraisal.php?id=418.
corners were nailed 50 mm the 50mm and then along with 150mm. i cut the the timber with a skill saw. to keep it straight we clamped a strait edge on to the flooring. ran the saw along the edge and it gave me a perfct line and an accurate cut. safety gear that was need, ear muff and saftey goggles. and also made sure that every body else was out of harms way.
hand tools used
hammer
knife
square
pencil
8mtape
power tools used'
nail gun
skill saw
flooring
today we started off by marking out the 1st sheet for the flooring. we ran string lines along the joists at 1250mm and used blocks to keep the line straightt of the peaces of partical board. after we got the 1st peice nailed down with 65mm angle grove floorig nails we ran the next peice up next to it and carryed on right the way down to the other end. once we got to the far end of the house we turned around and went back the other way so that we could stagger the joints. the peices were joined in tounge and groove pattern. each peaice had to be glued along the joists with gorilla grip express glue.
http://www.holdfast.co.nz/pages/product_details.aspx?pid=20075&psid=20075
nailing for the flooring had to be nailed in at 150mm spacing around the outside and 200mm spacing throuhg the middle this info came from the manufactures broshures http://www.branz.co.nz/cms_branz_show_appraisal.php?id=418.
corners were nailed 50 mm the 50mm and then along with 150mm. i cut the the timber with a skill saw. to keep it straight we clamped a strait edge on to the flooring. ran the saw along the edge and it gave me a perfct line and an accurate cut. safety gear that was need, ear muff and saftey goggles. and also made sure that every body else was out of harms way.
hand tools used
hammer
knife
square
pencil
8mtape
power tools used'
nail gun
skill saw
Monday 16 April 2012
17/04/2012
joists an bearers
Today we started out on the building i finished off my man hole from yesterday buy putting on the joist hangers and lining up the joists at 450 centures. after lunch we put up string lines and used blocks on top of each joists to make sure they were level each joists either had to be packed up with dpc paper or if the joist was to high it had to be taken out an the bearer was plane down to match.. after we got them all level i measured out at 450 centures i nailed them all down on each side of the joist. i used my tape an measured the under neath of the joists so that later in the build we can just pull the top across to match the bottom. after all the joists were strait we ran a plank across the top of the joists to hold them strait while the floor was being nailed down. to work out how many joists were needed i divided the length of the house floor by .450. eg 17.2m divided by 450mm. the nailing pattern for the joists were 2 nails 1 top 1 bottom at the ends an through the middle it was 1 nail on each side of the joist but nailed into each alternate bearer.
hand tools used
hammer
rule
square
8m tape
power tools used
nail gun
radial arm saw
joists an bearers
Today we started out on the building i finished off my man hole from yesterday buy putting on the joist hangers and lining up the joists at 450 centures. after lunch we put up string lines and used blocks on top of each joists to make sure they were level each joists either had to be packed up with dpc paper or if the joist was to high it had to be taken out an the bearer was plane down to match.. after we got them all level i measured out at 450 centures i nailed them all down on each side of the joist. i used my tape an measured the under neath of the joists so that later in the build we can just pull the top across to match the bottom. after all the joists were strait we ran a plank across the top of the joists to hold them strait while the floor was being nailed down. to work out how many joists were needed i divided the length of the house floor by .450. eg 17.2m divided by 450mm. the nailing pattern for the joists were 2 nails 1 top 1 bottom at the ends an through the middle it was 1 nail on each side of the joist but nailed into each alternate bearer.
hand tools used
hammer
rule
square
8m tape
power tools used
nail gun
Tuesday 3 April 2012
4/04/2012
joists and bearers
today we started by finishing the bearers from yesterday and starting the joists. we started marking out the boundry joists where they had to sit on the edge of the bearers. we tacked each end of the joists so we could the hit each corner a square it up. after that we got put into groups an got given seperate jobs. me an eru got given the cutting job on the radial arm saw. i chaecked the end on the joists for sqaure and if they were algood i mark out 7190mm an cut it. the number of joists worked out to be 35.6 so round that up to 36. i.e. 15.5 / 0.450.
the joists then were put inside the boundry joists an tacked at each end 450 centeres the whole way. using 4inch galvinised nails.after lucnch i got put onto making the man hle in the linen cupboard, i started by looking at the plans and transfering them onto the boundry joists. then i measured an marked out the hole i needed to cut out an pulled the joists back out ct out my 600mm hole +90mm+90mm which is to compensate for the doulble joist to that was needed to make it abit stronger. i measured an worked out what the gap in the middle on the double joists was an cut 4 bits at 807mm to fit inbetween.
nailed them together marked out with my tape an square where thay needed to sit to be square an nailed it all up.
A= joist
B= trimming joist
C= curtailed joist
D= trimmer joist
hand tools used
-hammer
-pencil
-1m rule
-8m tape
-sqaure
power tools used
-radial arm saw
-paslode nail gun
joists and bearers
today we started by finishing the bearers from yesterday and starting the joists. we started marking out the boundry joists where they had to sit on the edge of the bearers. we tacked each end of the joists so we could the hit each corner a square it up. after that we got put into groups an got given seperate jobs. me an eru got given the cutting job on the radial arm saw. i chaecked the end on the joists for sqaure and if they were algood i mark out 7190mm an cut it. the number of joists worked out to be 35.6 so round that up to 36. i.e. 15.5 / 0.450.
the joists then were put inside the boundry joists an tacked at each end 450 centeres the whole way. using 4inch galvinised nails.after lucnch i got put onto making the man hle in the linen cupboard, i started by looking at the plans and transfering them onto the boundry joists. then i measured an marked out the hole i needed to cut out an pulled the joists back out ct out my 600mm hole +90mm+90mm which is to compensate for the doulble joist to that was needed to make it abit stronger. i measured an worked out what the gap in the middle on the double joists was an cut 4 bits at 807mm to fit inbetween.
nailed them together marked out with my tape an square where thay needed to sit to be square an nailed it all up.
A= joist
B= trimming joist
C= curtailed joist
D= trimmer joist
hand tools used
-hammer
-pencil
-1m rule
-8m tape
-sqaure
power tools used
-radial arm saw
-paslode nail gun
Sunday 1 April 2012
2/04/2012
Piles and Bearers
started the day with finishing the bottom plates from last week, bolting them down with the dyna drill an ratttle gun. after smoko we started to lay out an cut the bearers to go on top of our makeshift piles. we had to stager the joins so that the bears didnt have any weak spots. and also nail the 2 peices on 6x2 together with 4 inch galvinised nails , making sure to nail them in on an angle so that in the long run the timber wont pull apart. mark took us for a math lesson after lunch we went over area diameter and volume. and how to work them out on a building site.
hand tools used
-hammer
-8m tape
-combination square
-paslode nail gun
-builders pencil
power tools used
-radial arm saw
-dyna drill
-rattle gun
Piles and Bearers
started the day with finishing the bottom plates from last week, bolting them down with the dyna drill an ratttle gun. after smoko we started to lay out an cut the bearers to go on top of our makeshift piles. we had to stager the joins so that the bears didnt have any weak spots. and also nail the 2 peices on 6x2 together with 4 inch galvinised nails , making sure to nail them in on an angle so that in the long run the timber wont pull apart. mark took us for a math lesson after lunch we went over area diameter and volume. and how to work them out on a building site.
hand tools used
-hammer
-8m tape
-combination square
-paslode nail gun
-builders pencil
power tools used
-radial arm saw
-dyna drill
-rattle gun
Tuesday 27 March 2012
28/03/2012
week 3 site set out
durung this week we iv learnt to use a builders level correctly and accurtaly starting from settin out the tripod to leveling the dumpy.
step 1: extend the legs out an try to get the top of it as flat as possible.
step 2: carefully place the dumpy on top of the tripod an screw the hold into the botttom of the dumpy. make sure that the leveling screws are ontop of each leg to the tri pod.
step 3: level the dumpy using the the screws around the bottom of it until the bubble is on the middle of the brown ring in the sight.
We also learnt how to set out profiles an string lines. we started by hammering in 1 peg and using the 30m tape to measure out the distance of our house legth an width. we set out profiles using hammers pencils sledgy builders level an staff. after setting out our profiles we measured out our width an length and made sure the lines were parallel to each other at both ends then moved the strings on each profile untill the house was a perfect rectangle. to get it perfectly square we had to measure the diagonalis on the house. from each corner to each corner. once both of the diagonals were the same u then ercheck the parrells an if they stil are the same you get a prefectly square rectangle. we made sure that all pegs were nailed in plumb an level. profiles had to be between 900mm an 1100mm away from the finished florr level peg 900m in from the profiles. once all the pegs were plumb an level every peg had to be braced. once we had the strings up we used pythagours theroy to check the corners for square. eg the 3m 4m 5m method.
we also learnt how to use a water level. we laernt that water is more accurate than your every day builders level and it can be used to level things around corners. it works when u make ur level mark on one side an then fill the hose.tube with water. draw a line on the tube at the height of your level line. then lower the other end on the tube untill the water level is exactly on your 1st level line. once it is u can mark the other end of the tube at the height of where the water level is in the tube and that will be the exact same height as your 1st mark. i.e level. things that can cause the level to be inaccurate are bubbles in the tube, a hole in the tube.
today we stayed at ucol we set out our bottom plates on the floor after squaring 1 end with the radial arm saw an lining it up with cams chalk line. we had 2 people standing on the 45x90 while another class mate drill a hole though the wood into the concrete with a dynadrill 12mm drill bit. after that put a bolt in the hole and used the rattle gun the screw it in. bolts were spaced at around 1200mm apart. we marked out the spacing for the piles at 2195mm apart from inside to outside meaning inside of the wood to outside of the next peice. we then used the dumpy an staff on each spacing where the piles would have sit we measured how hig the piless were going to need to be. thats where the class got upto for today
week 3 site set out
durung this week we iv learnt to use a builders level correctly and accurtaly starting from settin out the tripod to leveling the dumpy.
step 1: extend the legs out an try to get the top of it as flat as possible.
step 2: carefully place the dumpy on top of the tripod an screw the hold into the botttom of the dumpy. make sure that the leveling screws are ontop of each leg to the tri pod.
step 3: level the dumpy using the the screws around the bottom of it until the bubble is on the middle of the brown ring in the sight.
We also learnt how to set out profiles an string lines. we started by hammering in 1 peg and using the 30m tape to measure out the distance of our house legth an width. we set out profiles using hammers pencils sledgy builders level an staff. after setting out our profiles we measured out our width an length and made sure the lines were parallel to each other at both ends then moved the strings on each profile untill the house was a perfect rectangle. to get it perfectly square we had to measure the diagonalis on the house. from each corner to each corner. once both of the diagonals were the same u then ercheck the parrells an if they stil are the same you get a prefectly square rectangle. we made sure that all pegs were nailed in plumb an level. profiles had to be between 900mm an 1100mm away from the finished florr level peg 900m in from the profiles. once all the pegs were plumb an level every peg had to be braced. once we had the strings up we used pythagours theroy to check the corners for square. eg the 3m 4m 5m method.
we also learnt how to use a water level. we laernt that water is more accurate than your every day builders level and it can be used to level things around corners. it works when u make ur level mark on one side an then fill the hose.tube with water. draw a line on the tube at the height of your level line. then lower the other end on the tube untill the water level is exactly on your 1st level line. once it is u can mark the other end of the tube at the height of where the water level is in the tube and that will be the exact same height as your 1st mark. i.e level. things that can cause the level to be inaccurate are bubbles in the tube, a hole in the tube.
today we stayed at ucol we set out our bottom plates on the floor after squaring 1 end with the radial arm saw an lining it up with cams chalk line. we had 2 people standing on the 45x90 while another class mate drill a hole though the wood into the concrete with a dynadrill 12mm drill bit. after that put a bolt in the hole and used the rattle gun the screw it in. bolts were spaced at around 1200mm apart. we marked out the spacing for the piles at 2195mm apart from inside to outside meaning inside of the wood to outside of the next peice. we then used the dumpy an staff on each spacing where the piles would have sit we measured how hig the piless were going to need to be. thats where the class got upto for today
Monday 19 March 2012
20/03/2012
higgens concrete
started in the e shed talked about what was going on today. made our way to higgens concrete contractors and met aaron curry he started the visit with an intro about what makes a god concrete. cement agrogates/stones and water. he told us about workabilaty which is how easy the concrete is to work with and use. we moved on to the testing. we were showed to to do a compression test and a slump test. the compression test cosited of a worker filling a template in 3rds an prodding it down every 3rd of the cylinder we were told then it was sent off to a lab an tested using compression to see how strong that batch of concrete is. the slump test was pretty much much the same but it was done in a cone shape template. a worker filled the cone in 3rds again prodding it down 25 prods to every fill. he then slowly but with a consistant pace pulled the cone off the concrete turned it upside down an measurement from the top of the cone to the highest point of the concrete an that determined the slump of the concrete. we moved onto what kind of chemicals can be added to slow or speed up the chemical reaction in the concrete to make it set faster or keep it wet longer. accelerator to make it set faster and retarders to slow the process down. also fibres that can be added to concrete that needs to be poured on a slope to hold it together/ keep it in place for example a driveway.
higgens concrete
started in the e shed talked about what was going on today. made our way to higgens concrete contractors and met aaron curry he started the visit with an intro about what makes a god concrete. cement agrogates/stones and water. he told us about workabilaty which is how easy the concrete is to work with and use. we moved on to the testing. we were showed to to do a compression test and a slump test. the compression test cosited of a worker filling a template in 3rds an prodding it down every 3rd of the cylinder we were told then it was sent off to a lab an tested using compression to see how strong that batch of concrete is. the slump test was pretty much much the same but it was done in a cone shape template. a worker filled the cone in 3rds again prodding it down 25 prods to every fill. he then slowly but with a consistant pace pulled the cone off the concrete turned it upside down an measurement from the top of the cone to the highest point of the concrete an that determined the slump of the concrete. we moved onto what kind of chemicals can be added to slow or speed up the chemical reaction in the concrete to make it set faster or keep it wet longer. accelerator to make it set faster and retarders to slow the process down. also fibres that can be added to concrete that needs to be poured on a slope to hold it together/ keep it in place for example a driveway.
19/03/2012
today in carpenrty level 4 we started the day in the e shed an discussed what was going to happen today. matt told us about the itm framing an roof truss plant we were going to visit. once we got to the plant we meet the owner an he started the tour. i experinced how farms were made in a facotry and how fast thay could make them and how accurate the end product was. i learnt abit abiut the grading of timber and the treaments. after smoko we dicussed on the board with matt about timber treatments their grading an in what conditions differnt graded/treated timber has to be used. after lunch it was math. this inclueded pythagours therom/ square roots. just before 3rd break we learnt how to used the builders level i.e. setting it up accuratly and moving station. after smoko we sat down on the class room an bloged our day.
today in carpenrty level 4 we started the day in the e shed an discussed what was going to happen today. matt told us about the itm framing an roof truss plant we were going to visit. once we got to the plant we meet the owner an he started the tour. i experinced how farms were made in a facotry and how fast thay could make them and how accurate the end product was. i learnt abit abiut the grading of timber and the treaments. after smoko we dicussed on the board with matt about timber treatments their grading an in what conditions differnt graded/treated timber has to be used. after lunch it was math. this inclueded pythagours therom/ square roots. just before 3rd break we learnt how to used the builders level i.e. setting it up accuratly and moving station. after smoko we sat down on the class room an bloged our day.
Tuesday 13 March 2012
Team building exersize 14/3/2012
Today in carpentry level 4 we started at 8am in the e shed. we had a tool box talk about what was going to happen during the day. we moved onto some basic nailing exersizes in team of 4 or 5. after smoko we did some string line races and another diagonal nailing exersize. after lunch we set up some planks and palets to race a few wheel barrows across in our teams. we had to fill the baarrow with cups of water out of an 54l container race then across the course an cup the water back into the container an the team with the most water won.
Today in carpentry level 4 we started at 8am in the e shed. we had a tool box talk about what was going to happen during the day. we moved onto some basic nailing exersizes in team of 4 or 5. after smoko we did some string line races and another diagonal nailing exersize. after lunch we set up some planks and palets to race a few wheel barrows across in our teams. we had to fill the baarrow with cups of water out of an 54l container race then across the course an cup the water back into the container an the team with the most water won.
Monday 12 March 2012
about me and myself
-name : regan schrader
-Why im at ucol: i am at ucol to start and complete the level 4 carpentry course and to help kick start my appenticeship and also try to obtain a full time job for the end of the year
-Why are you doing the carpentry course: i am doing this course to kick start my appenticeship and work towards getting a job for next year
-Tell us abit about yourself: My name is regan i live in maxwell which is about 20mins past Wanganui towards Waverly on a dairy farm that my parents share milk on. I enjoy fishing hunting and building and a sneaky burboun every so often.
-Why im at ucol: i am at ucol to start and complete the level 4 carpentry course and to help kick start my appenticeship and also try to obtain a full time job for the end of the year
-Why are you doing the carpentry course: i am doing this course to kick start my appenticeship and work towards getting a job for next year
-Tell us abit about yourself: My name is regan i live in maxwell which is about 20mins past Wanganui towards Waverly on a dairy farm that my parents share milk on. I enjoy fishing hunting and building and a sneaky burboun every so often.
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