18/07/2012
today at ucol we did windows mark showed us the process of how to put windows in. level one side of the window an place packers on that wall after you have found the center of the hole in the wall. pack up the bottom of the window untill flush with the flashing. put window in an screw it in to the side youe packed. pack the other side and boom done.
Tuesday, 17 July 2012
Sunday, 17 June 2012
18/06/2012
today me liam and toucher finished off one side of the roof purlins. we started off by looking at the ones that were already there to make sure they were strait but they were not. we had to pull out the ends off and cut around 10mm off each 1 with the hand saw to kae it push up further at the ends making it straiten up along the whole house. once we had them all straight we carryed on orking down the roof make sure we staggerd the joins each purlin we put up. each spacing was 715mm centures. each prrlin had to have 2 4inch nails on each edge.
hand tools used: ful apron of tools, chalk line,
power tools used: drop saw.
today me liam and toucher finished off one side of the roof purlins. we started off by looking at the ones that were already there to make sure they were strait but they were not. we had to pull out the ends off and cut around 10mm off each 1 with the hand saw to kae it push up further at the ends making it straiten up along the whole house. once we had them all straight we carryed on orking down the roof make sure we staggerd the joins each purlin we put up. each spacing was 715mm centures. each prrlin had to have 2 4inch nails on each edge.
hand tools used: ful apron of tools, chalk line,
power tools used: drop saw.
Tuesday, 12 June 2012
12/6/2012
today at ucol we started to do purlins. 1st we had to measure down from the top of the truss 150mm an then 715mm gaps from then on. we chalk line every mark right across all the trusses. we tacked a nail into every 3rd chalk mark of every line so that we could lay the purlins down on the roff with out them sliding away. we then measurd 150mm off the hip rafter each side and ran another purlin up to the one on the trusses. we had to cut an angle on the hip rafer purlin so it came up flush with the top 1.we then went along each purlin nailing it in with 2 4inch nails an 1 purlin screw into every truss. the join on the purlins had to be staggered to help strenghten the roof.
today at ucol we started to do purlins. 1st we had to measure down from the top of the truss 150mm an then 715mm gaps from then on. we chalk line every mark right across all the trusses. we tacked a nail into every 3rd chalk mark of every line so that we could lay the purlins down on the roff with out them sliding away. we then measurd 150mm off the hip rafter each side and ran another purlin up to the one on the trusses. we had to cut an angle on the hip rafer purlin so it came up flush with the top 1.we then went along each purlin nailing it in with 2 4inch nails an 1 purlin screw into every truss. the join on the purlins had to be staggered to help strenghten the roof.
Sunday, 10 June 2012
11/06/2012
today i did hip rafters. each rafer had to be put in accuratly we started by putting in the premade rafers tht were already nailed together. once we had them sitting in place we nailed the bottom on the rafter in an then level the rafter an nailed the top. once all the rafters were in we had to nail plate the hip rafter together becasue the timber was to short. once both sides hip rafters were nailed in it was the end of the day
hand tools used: full apron hammer rule etc level string line.
power tools used: nail gun
today i did hip rafters. each rafer had to be put in accuratly we started by putting in the premade rafers tht were already nailed together. once we had them sitting in place we nailed the bottom on the rafter in an then level the rafter an nailed the top. once all the rafters were in we had to nail plate the hip rafter together becasue the timber was to short. once both sides hip rafters were nailed in it was the end of the day
hand tools used: full apron hammer rule etc level string line.
power tools used: nail gun
Tuesday, 29 May 2012
Monday, 28 May 2012
29/5/2012
frame construction
today we just carryed on from last week with straitening the frames we stood. my job was to measure the intreanl frames an make sure thay were all paralell. after plumbing the frames noticed that none of them were paralell so i got my tape an hooked it over the external frame and did a running measurement along with the plans i moved the frames to where thy were ment to be working from 1 end to the other end. i then moved across to the hall way side of the room and did the same measurements. i then got the 30m tape and did an overall measurement and referd to the plans to see if i was close to where i was supose to be.
hand tools used
hammer
30m tape
8m tape
level
straight edge
frame construction
today we just carryed on from last week with straitening the frames we stood. my job was to measure the intreanl frames an make sure thay were all paralell. after plumbing the frames noticed that none of them were paralell so i got my tape an hooked it over the external frame and did a running measurement along with the plans i moved the frames to where thy were ment to be working from 1 end to the other end. i then moved across to the hall way side of the room and did the same measurements. i then got the 30m tape and did an overall measurement and referd to the plans to see if i was close to where i was supose to be.
hand tools used
hammer
30m tape
8m tape
level
straight edge
Monday, 7 May 2012
8/5/2010
internal framing
today we started to nail up the intrenal frames. 1st i tacked the top and bottom plate together. i then marked out where the studs go. 600mm centures for gib fixing. and also marking out where jack studs full studs blocking an trimmer studs go
X = full stud.
J/S = jack stud.
T = trimmer stud.
B = blocking.
after i had the top an bottom plate marked out i pulled the nails out an started laying down studs between the plates. i startd at the end of the wall an nailed in the 1st stud using 90mm paslode gun nails 2 in each end of the stud. once i had the 1st 1 in i just carryed on down the wall an put the blocking an studs in. once i got to the door i look at the plans to see how wide it was. the door was 760mm wide plus 30mm each side of the door for jams an then another 10mm on each side for packing an clearance which made my all up measurement 840mm. i marked on the top an bottom plate 45mm back from the other end of the wall an marked it T for trimmer stud. then another 45mm for the full stud.then measured back 840mm from the trimmer stud mark an sqaured that mark. after that i measured back another 45mm an 90mm marked the 1st 45mm T an the 2nd wit X for full stud. once i nailed all the studs in i cut a top lintel for the top of the door. 2 peaices of 90mm/45mm nailed together stood up on there edge. once that was nailed in i cut 2 small peaices on 90mm/45mm to fit above the lintel and my wall was finished.
hand tools used
- hammer
- 1m rule
- pencil
- sqaure
- 8m tape
power tools used
- paslode nail gun
- radial arm saw
internal framing
today we started to nail up the intrenal frames. 1st i tacked the top and bottom plate together. i then marked out where the studs go. 600mm centures for gib fixing. and also marking out where jack studs full studs blocking an trimmer studs go
X = full stud.
J/S = jack stud.
T = trimmer stud.
B = blocking.
after i had the top an bottom plate marked out i pulled the nails out an started laying down studs between the plates. i startd at the end of the wall an nailed in the 1st stud using 90mm paslode gun nails 2 in each end of the stud. once i had the 1st 1 in i just carryed on down the wall an put the blocking an studs in. once i got to the door i look at the plans to see how wide it was. the door was 760mm wide plus 30mm each side of the door for jams an then another 10mm on each side for packing an clearance which made my all up measurement 840mm. i marked on the top an bottom plate 45mm back from the other end of the wall an marked it T for trimmer stud. then another 45mm for the full stud.then measured back 840mm from the trimmer stud mark an sqaured that mark. after that i measured back another 45mm an 90mm marked the 1st 45mm T an the 2nd wit X for full stud. once i nailed all the studs in i cut a top lintel for the top of the door. 2 peaices of 90mm/45mm nailed together stood up on there edge. once that was nailed in i cut 2 small peaices on 90mm/45mm to fit above the lintel and my wall was finished.
hand tools used
- hammer
- 1m rule
- pencil
- sqaure
- 8m tape
power tools used
- paslode nail gun
- radial arm saw
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